Vinous - Alsace: The 2014s and  Late-Release 2013s

February 20016

93+ MURÉ Riesling 2013 Clos Saint Landelin 

Very bright straw-yellow color. Pink grapefruit, lime, jasmine & ginger on the captivating nose. Bright & fresh in the mouth too, but with a suave texture & sneaky concentration to the fresh, tangy orchard fruit & mineral flavors. Finishes very long & refined, with noteworthy density, repeating floral nuances & classical dryness (only 3 g/l residual sugar & 10 g/l total acidity). A very vertical, high-acid Riesling with a multilayered personality & real depth. The average age of these vines is 40 years, but Véronique told me that numerous parcels are over 60 years old. Vivid straw-green. The knockout nose showcases green apple, quince, botanical herbs, minerals & lemon oil. Bright, dense & suave in the mouth, with ripe citrus, quince & sweet spices lifted by harmonious acidity. Finishes juicy & long, with some obvious residual sweetness & a supple, creamy texture, but also uncommon clarity & cut. This is one of the best Sylvaners I have ever tasted. Had this carried the word “Riesling” on the label, everyone would be raving & scoring it highly, but as it’s “just” a Sylvaner, I wonder if it will slip under the radar. A wine of absolutely crystalline purity, it deserves to be evaluated for what is in the bottle (a great & varietally accurate wine) & not on the label (lowly Sylvaner). This marvelous wine is made from super ripe, late-harvested grapes that are usually partially air-dried & often hit by a little noble rot (such as in 2007). Try it with cilantro-accented roast chicken or turkey.

93+ MURÉ Sylvaner 2013 Clos Saint Landelin «Cuvée Oscar»

Vivid straw-green. The knockout nose showcases green apple, quince, botanical herbs, minerals & lemon oil. Bright, dense & suave in the mouth, with ripe citrus, quince & sweet spices lifted by harmonious acidity. Finishes juicy & long, with some obvious residual sweetness & a supple, creamy texture, but also uncommon clarity & cut. This is one of the best Sylvaners I have ever tasted. Had this carried the word “Riesling” on the label, everyone would be raving & scoring it highly, but as it’s “just” a Sylvaner, I wonder if it will slip under the radar. A wine of absolutely crystalline purity, it deserves to be evaluated for what is in the bottle (a great & varietally accurate wine) & not on the label (lowly Sylvaner). This marvelous wine is made from super ripe, late-harvested grapes that are usually partially air-dried & often hit by a little noble rot (such as in 2007). Try it with cilantro-accented roast chicken or turkey. 

92 MURÉ Gewurztraminer 2013 Clos Saint Landelin Gold-tinged straw-yellow

Very deep, complex aromas of lychee, orange oil, grapefruit, cinnamon & nutmeg. Rich & dense in the mouth, with suave flavors similar to the aromas & & exceptional sugar/ acid balance. This very big wine manages the neat trick of remaining light on its feet. Finishes extremely long, with marvelous sweet-and-sour nuances. Much richer, deeper & more complex than Muré’s outstanding 2013 Gewürztraminer Côte de Rouffach. It clocks in at 32 g/l residual sugar & 5.5 g/l total acidity, so it is obviously not an especially dry wine. 

92 MURÉ Pinot Gris 2013 Clos Saint Landelin Gold-tinged straw

Aromas of strawberry, grilled peach, papaya & mango nectar. Rich & dense in the mouth, with ripe peach jam & pear nectar flavors complicated by sweet spices. Finishes long & suave. At 30 g/l residual sugar & 6 g/l total acidity, this is clearly not a dry wine, but it is an outstanding Pinot Gris that will match well with rich, complex fish & white meat preparations, possibly involving cream sauces. The Pinot Gris vines in the Clos average 50 years of age, & the iron-rich clay soils give a tactile, velvety mouthfeel that is typical of many of Muré’s wines

91+ MURÉ Gewurztraminer 2013 Zinnkoepflé Pale straw-yellow

Minty notes of white flowers, lemon oil, fruit cocktail & sweet spices hint at botrytis. Long & fresh with an enticing mineral daintiness. Lacks the power of the calcaire-rich Clos Saint Landelin but offers refinement & grace in very typical Zinnkoepflé style (it’s a marvelous grand cru for Gewürztraminer). The grapes build up sugar easily here & so this wine sports 100 g/l residual sugar & tastes quite sweet. Still, a bottle of this & some grilled sausages would make for a feast any day of the week. 

91+ MURÉ Gewurztraminer 2013 Zinnkoepflé Pale straw-yellow 

Minty notes of white flowers, lemon oil, fruit cocktail & sweet spices hint at botrytis. Long & fresh with an enticing mineral daintiness. Lacks the power of the calcaire-rich Clos Saint Landelin but offers refinement & grace in very typical Zinnkoepflé style (it’s a marvelous grand cru for Gewürztraminer). The grapes build up sugar easily here & so this wine sports 100 g/l residual sugar & tastes quite sweet. Still, a bottle of this & some grilled sausages would make for a feast any day of the week. 

91+ MURÉ Pinot Noir 2013 Clos Saint Landelin

Bright red; a little lighter in color than Muré’s Pinot Noir V. Knockout aromas of floral red berries & ripe red cherry are complicated by a flinty note. Ripe, dense & juicy, with a saline element & harmonious acidity providing clarity & cut on the long, mineral finish. This juicy, finely textured wine has all the elements of a great Pinot Noir; in fact, it’s one of the best young Alsace examples of the variety that I can recall. Cellar it for a couple of years & enjoy it for another eight after that.

91 MURÉ Sylvaner 2014 Steinstuck

91 MURÉ Muscat 2014 Steinstuck

90 MURÉ Riesling 2013 Côte de Rouffach

90 MURÉ Gewurztraminer 2013 Côte de Rouffach

90 MURÉ Pinot Noir 2013 «V»

89 MURÉ Pinot Gris 2013 Lutzeltal

89 MURÉ Crémant d’Alsace Rosé

88 MURÉ Pinot Gris 2013 Côte de Rouffach

By Ian D’Agata